I’m having a particularly carb-y quarantine. Something about feeling cooped up in the house makes me want to eat my way through a couple oversized bowls of pasta a day. I’m trying to combat some of these impulses, with mixed success, and trying to eat more vegetable and sensible things. This recipe is the combination of both - lots of satisfying carbs from both potatoes and pasta, and a mountain of greens that cooks down into a small manageable volume.
Read moreDolly's magic bars
These bars are often called Hello Dolly bars, or seven layer bars or magic bars. I never really got the seven layers name - it makes them sound like they are way more complicated than they are. And they are really, really not complicated to make. They take about 10 minutes to get them in the oven and they really have two very simple layers: a graham crumb crust and then a gooey, caramelly chocolate and nuts layer, balanced with some flaky salt on top.
You can put anything you want in these bars. I like to go with lots of types of chocolate, and I think the star touch is the malted chocolate balls. When you bake them, the malty insides kind of vaporize into crispy, melty magic. I’m very fond of this particular combination, but go for whatever you like - often these bars have coconut, or dried fruit.
dolly’s magic bars
1 ½ cups graham crumbs
½ cup butter, melted
1 tin sweetened condensed milk
¼ cup milk chocolate chips or chunks
¼ cup dark chocolate chips or chunks
¼ cup white chocolate chips or chunks
¼ cup chocolate malt balls (Maltesers or Whoppers)
½ cup toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
1.2 cup toasted pecans, roughly chopped
A very generous pinch of flaky salt (Maldon salt is great)
Line an 8” x 8” pan with parchment paper. Combine graham crumbs and butter until evenly mixed. Spread over the bottom of lined pan, and smooth into a uniform layer.
Sprinkle chocolate and nuts over the graham crumbs. Pour the condensed milk evenly over the chocolate and nuts, scraping out as much from the can as possible. Sprinkle a bunch of flaky salt over top (I like to really go for it with the salt - these are very sweet and they can handle it!).
Bake at 350° F for around 30 minutes, or until the top is caramelized and bubbly. Cool bars completely before cutting (chilling them helps even more). These keep well in an airtight container in the fridge (or freezer) if you manage to keep them hanging around.
loaded fudgy brownies
These are seriously gooey brownies. Like, difficult-to-eat-with-any -dignity-but-totally-worth-it gooey. They are crispy around the edges, and super fudgey in the centre. They are also loaded with chocolate chunks, pecans and chewy caramel. Top them with lots of flaky salt to offset the sweetness and richness - really go for it with the salt.
Read morevegan peanut & chocolate meringues
Aquafaba is a kind of bizarre accidental miracle egg white substitute. It’s bean water - specifically chickpea water. The stuff you tip down the drain right before you make hummus. I have seen people try other types of beans, but chickpea water works well and has a fairly neutral flavour. It’s really hard to believe that it will work the first time you try it; it seems impossible. But when you start to whip it, it’s so egg-white like that I don’t think I could tell the difference if I didn’t already know it was aquafaba. It seems to have been first discovered by a French tenor in 2014, and then took off in internet vegan and otherwise egg-averse circles.
Read morepulled pork tacos
I’m not quite sure what happened to me over the summer, I feel like Rip Van Winkle waking up from a long nap. Except not for 20 years, just for a couple months, and not sleeping so much as dropping all my good habits about posting here consistently and falling into lazy summertime fugue state. It was a lovely summer, I traveled to Liverpool (excellent city, strongly recommend!), hosted some friends at our house and puttered around the garden. And really, really procrastinated about posting anything here.
Now I’m trying to snap out of it and actually be a little bit productive. Luckily, these pulled pork tacos that I started working on way back in June, while appropriate for summer, are also hearty and comforting enough for crisper, cooler weather. The pulled pork takes a few hours, but you don’t have to do any work after throwing everything in a big pot and walk away. All you need to make in advance is the pickled cabbage, it’s better a couple days after you make it. You can make the cilantro sauce in 5 minutes, and then everything comes together really fast when the pork is done. It’s excellent for leftovers; pulled pork gets better after a day the fridge.
pulled pork:
2 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, coarsely chopped
1 bulb garlic, cloves peeled and slightly crushed
2 tsp each paprika, cumin and crushed chili flakes
1 can (398 ml/14 oz) plum tomatoes, drained
3 tbsp tomato paste
1 ½ cups chicken stock
2 tbsp worcestershire sauce
2 tbsp brown sugar
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1 pork butt roast, about 4-5 pounds
salt and pepper
Heat oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat. When oil is shimmering, add onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic and onions are fragrant and golden brown. Add dry spices and stir through the oil. Cook for 1-2 minutes or until very fragrant.
Add tomatoes, tomato paste, chicken stock, worcestershire, sugar and vinegar. Bring to a gentle simmer and add the pork. Season with salt and pepper and reduce the heat to low. Cover the pot with a lid, leaving a small gap for steam to escape. Cook until meat is falling apart, about 3 hours. Remove the meat and shred with forks.
The liquid should be thickened significantly, but if you wish to reduce it further cook over medium heat until quite thick. If there is a lot of excess fat, scoop it off the top with a spoon. Toss shredded pork with remaining liquid.
Serve on warmed corn tortillas with pickled cabbage, avocado slices, green cilantro sauce and a squeeze of lime juice.
crispy fish dogs
I told you about the wonder and majesty that is quick pickled cabbage; I wanted to give you all a recipe that would really help show off how good it is. This one is a winner. It has all the appeal of a hotdog crossed with fish and chips, with a tangy dilly aioli and fresh greens, and of course the pickled cabbage. Plus, optional but recommended, fried jalapenos to top everything off. These would be fantastic for a summertime backyard party.
Don’t get overwhelmed by the deep frying element of this recipe. I used to be super intimidated to deep fry anything, but this is actually pretty quick and simple. You don’t need any special equipment, just a large, heavy pot and a thermometer (in a pinch you can do it without a thermometer). If there is a recipe that’s worth pushing past deep frying anxiety, I think this is it.
crispy beer battered fish (and jalapenos!)
1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus a bit more for dredging
½ cup cornstarch
2 tsp baking powder
1 can of your favorite beer
1 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
1 pound halibut, cod or other flaky white fish
⅓ cup pickled jalapenos, drained and patted dry with paper towel
3-4 cups neutral oil for frying
Pat fish dry with a paper towel and remove any bones. Cut the fish into hotdog-sized batons.
Heat oven to 250° and place a cookie sheet with a cooling tray on it into the oven. Heat oil in a large, heavy pot to 350°. If you don’t have a thermometer, heat the oil until a little batter dropped in sizzles and bubbles vigorously.
Combine dry ingredients in a medium bowl. Stir in beer and mix until evenly combined. Working one piece at a time, dredge fish in flour and then dip into batter. Make sure to coat the fish all over. Carefully place battered fish into hot oil. Fry until deep golden brown, turning fish over after two or three minutes when the bottom is dark enough.
Place cooked fish on the rack in the oven while you continue cooking the rest. Dip jalapenos in batter and fry for couple minutes. Drain on the rack with the fish.
dill aioli
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup fresh dill, roughly chopped
1 tsp garlic powder
salt and pepper
2 tbs lemon juice
Stir all ingredients together.
assembly
All of the above plus:
pickled cabbage, drained of as much pickling liquid as possible
pea shoots or other crisp greens
more tiny dill fronds
hot dog buns
Slather a soft hot-dog bun with dill mayo, and add pea shoots and pickled cabbage. Top with a piece of crispy fish, some dill and a few jalapenos if you like.